Whilst I hope the worst of the weather is now behind us until Winter. I thought this little article may prove informative.
I use the last product listed FS365. I apply it after every wash and have found the protection excellent, especially because I use my bikes all year.
Easily applied, it costs very little compared with the other two. You will need a greater amount due to reapplications required.
Winter care for your motorcycle
"There are lots of on-line guides and blog entries dedicated to beating corrosion
on your bike over winter and an assortment of chemicals to help do the job. But
whatever methods and chemicals you personally prefer, the most important
thing that makes the biggest difference is still regular washing. Do as much as
you can to remove dust and dirt from your bike, even if itís just a quick hosedown with cold water after a ride, anything is better than leaving it.
This is your starting point, the bare minimum that needs to be done. After that,
anything else you do will be a bonus.
Corrosion blockers, of which there are many, offer a great deal of help. However
they are not all the same and their various performances range from ineffectual
to outstanding, depending for the most part on how they are used. Although
many of them are oil-based, itís not the oil that does the work. The additives in
them are the dedicated corrosion-blockers, not the oil itself. Consequently, old
engine oil is not a useful corrosion blocker, nor is WD40, 3in1, chain lube or
anything else like that.
In almost ten years of exclusively valeting motorcycles, specialising in corrosion
prevention, I have only found three dedicated corrosion blockers that deliver
what they promise;
XCP RUST BLOCKER;
the newest and arguably the most effective. Thick and sticky, great for large
areas and flatish surfaces where it can form a broad, even, protective layer.
Best applied very lightly with a compressor and spray gun.
The one that everyoneís heard of. Thinner than Rust Blocker, ideal for fiddly,
convoluted and deeply recessed areas where itís runnier nature allows it to
spread over difficult-to-access surfaces and creep into tiny gaps. Best applied
lightly with a compressor or spray gun again, but can be used from the aerosol
can with the straw to get into difficult-to-access areas such as deeply recessed
A WORD OF WARNING! These two go like jam if you put too much on and will hold every
bit of dirt and grit that gets into them against your bike, look nasty and be extremely difficult
to remove. Little and often is the way to go, re-apply lightly after thoroughly washing and
drying your bike, wiping each fresh application down with a microfibre to remove any
excess. If it looks greasy, you have too much on. Youíll gain no extra protection from using
too much, youíll just make a mess and waste money. Also, never ever get these on your
tyres or brakes!
The one that nobody believes in. Being water-based, the behavior of this is very different to
the other two. So easy to apply from its trigger-spray bottle, spray it all over your bike, then
walk off and leave it. This differs from the other two mostly in that it needs to be re-used
every single time the bike has got wet. Itís water soluble, so comes off with water, including
rain. However, use it correctly and it does an amazing job at keeping your bike clean as all
the dirt that sticks to it washes away as it comes off.
My professional advice for maximum protection is to use a combination of the above as a
belt-and-braces approach. Have a corrosion-prevention valet done by a pro, then use FS365
yourself over the top.
Remember, itís not just the winter road-salt that will corrode your bike. Salt is present
everywhere, in all the road-side dust and dirt, all year round. Our prevailing westerly winds
come in off the Atlantic ocean, carrying millions of tonnes of rain each year, all of it starting
out as salty sea-water.ď
Our thanks to Nigel Coulson, Chief Operating Officer at Aegis Moto Ltd for this article from
his talk to Oxford Branch.